Scotland's iconic relationship with the kilt began as far back as the 16th century when wool became an affordable and effective material for clothing. Before sheep and wool were established in the highlands, people would wear clothes made from linen and while cheap, it was better suited for climates much further south than the highlands of Scotland. Wool on the other hand is naturally weather-resistant and a great insulator, perfect for the harsh Scottish conditions.
Why did Scots start wearing kilt?
Firstly, it’s important to note that back in the late 16th century, there weren’t people roaming the streets of Edinburgh and Glasgow wearing great kilts. People in modern Scottish towns and cities would have worn short-waisted doublets and breeches, much like the rest of the UK at the time. The great kilt was a product of practicality in the highlands of Scotland where the ground was often boggy and the winters were unforgiving. The great kilt, belted plaid or feileadh-mór was a large piece of material that was wrapped around the body in a specific way that created pleats at the back. It was secured with a belt and the excess was draped over the shoulder. The great kilt was worn at knee length so it would stay out of the mud below and could be unfolded to be used as a blanket if needed. Thanks to it being made from wool, when the kilt got wet in winter, the exterior fabric would freeze and the inside would stay dry. This would actually increase the insulation of the kilt and help keep the highlander warm in less desirable conditions. There are even some historical texts that suggest that kilts were intentionally wetted during winter to help keep the wearer warmer.
When was the little kilt invented?
During the early part of the 18th century, a new form of the kilt started to make an appearance in Scotland. Named the felie-beg or little kilt, it looked a lot like the kilts we know today with sewed-in pleats and only featuring the lower portion of the great kilt. The little kilt grew in popularity quite quickly but in 1746 this growth came to an abrupt stop when the Dress Act was introduced. After the Battle of Culloden, the wearing of highland dress in Scotland was made illegal by the British Government and this included kilts as well as tartan. It wasn’t until the Act was repealed in 1782 that kilts and their popularity resurged. Since then, kilts have become part of Scottish national identity and are celebrated across the world as a symbol of Scotland.
What do the different elements of a kilt outfit represent?
Besides the kilt itself, a modern kilt outfit includes many elements with historic roots:
Sporran: Traditionally worn by Highlanders, the sporran compensates for the kilt's lack of pockets, keeping essentials like food, weapons, or coins safe. Today's sporrans, although more decorative, serve the same practical purpose for carrying items like phones and wallets.
Ghillie Brogues: These shoes date back to the days of the great kilt. Highlanders wore shoes with holes and long laces to navigate wet terrain. The holes allowed water to escape, while the laces were tied higher to avoid mud, enabling easy adjustment without dirtying hands.
Sgian Dubh: Originally a multipurpose knife used by Highlanders, the sgian dubh is now primarily a decorative accessory. Some modern versions include functional features like bottle openers, making them excellent groomsmen gifts.
Flashes: Used to help keep socks up, flashes were essential for Highlanders and remain a practical component of modern kilt outfits.
Plaid: Worn today by individuals of importance, such as grooms at weddings or hosts of Burns Suppers, the plaid represents the upper half of the great kilt. This historic element has been adapted into contemporary Highland dress to honor tradition.
These components of a modern kilt outfit not only enhance its aesthetic appeal but also connect wearers to Scotland's rich cultural heritage.
While the kilt may be moving towards becoming a fashionable article of clothing, it is still steeped in tradition and history. We have a range of both traditional and contemporary kilt outfits to buy as well as hire at MacGregor and MacDuff. Check out our online collection and find your next highlandwear style.
