In 2009, a Scottish Government paper on the Scottish diaspora estimated that the number of people worldwide claiming some level of Scottish ancestry was between 28 and 40 million. This is a significant number of people when you consider the population of Scotland in 2023 is just under 5.5 million. The country with the most people of Scottish ancestry is the United States, with an estimated 5.2 million Scottish Americans. You’ll find Gaelic speakers in Canada and highland games in Malaysia and it’s this diaspora that has given the kilt global recognition. In fact, one of the best ways to celebrate your Scottish heritage is by wearing a kilt, but how do you find your family tartan?
Clan History
To understand tartan, you first need to understand the basics of Scottish clan history. Clans were groups of people who aligned themselves with a chieftain or leader of the clan. These people were linked through family ties or by perceived kinship. The chieftain was the one person in charge and acted as king, judge, and protector over his clan members. Clans would grow in numbers by expansion of territory, whether peacefully or by force, the incoming clan members would have to swear allegiance to them and often took his name. As some clans grew larger and more powerful, subdivisions of the clan evolved. These subdivisions were called septs and were part of the wider clan but often didn’t share the same name. Smaller clans would also become spets of larger clans for reasons of protection or marriage. Clans were the main political system in Scotland until 1746 when the Jacobites lost their battle at Culloden. After the battle, King George II took full control of Scotland again, and clan culture was outlawed along with highland dress and tartan. After this period, the highland way of life and clan culture never recovered.
Why does each Clan have a tartan?
Traditionally wool was dyed using natural materials that were easily accessible. Plants, berries, and insects could all be used to create a dye that was strong enough to stain the fabric that would eventually become tartan. Using materials that were easy to come by meant clans in different areas would naturally end up with different coloured tartans. Over time, these differences became symbolic of clan individuality, and the patterns were cemented into the clans' identity. Each clan has at least one tartan but many have more. Today, clan tartans have Ancient variations which are lighter in colour to symbolise the natural dyes that would have been traditionally used, and Modern designs that are brighter. There are Hunting versions that feature earthy tones for camouflage and Dress options which are regarded as the most formal variation of the tartan. Some clan septs have their own tartans but others will share the tartan of the greater clan. For example, the MacWilliams were a sept of Clan Gunn and therefore, shared their tartan.
Can you wear any tartan?
Today tartan is a national symbol of Scotland and while a lot of tartans have clan affiliation, there are no rules or restrictions when it comes to wearing them. There are only a handful of restricted tartans that only a few people can wear. One example of this is the Balmoral tartan. This tartan is reserved for the head of the Monarchy and only they have the authority to wear it or give permission for others to wear it. Other than Clan tartans, there are a large number of Universal tartans available that have no affiliation with Scottish Clans. These tartans are modern and vibrant, making them an excellent choice for people who don’t want to wear a traditional tartan.
How to find your family tartan
Are you looking to celebrate your Scottish ancestry by buying yourself a kilt, but struggling to find your family tartan? The first thing you should do is use our Tartan Finder and search for your surname. If nothing is coming up, you then need to do a little research into your lineage and find a relative in your family that has the closest connection to Scotland. Often, people who know they have Scottish ancestry but can’t find their tartan will usually discover that their Scottish lineage comes from their mother's side. Another possibility for not finding a tartan linked to your family name is because it was historically a sept of another Clan. As mentioned previously, there were many septs in Scotland that didn’t have their own tartan but instead, shared one with another clan. This is usually an easy and interesting thing to research. If you still can’t find a tartan connected to your name, simply choose a Universal tartan. At MacGregor and MacDuff we have created our own range of Mist tartans that are all inspired by the beauty of Scotland, all of which would be an excellent choice for a kilt, trews, or tartan accessory. You can even design your own tartan with our Tartan Design Service. This service lets you create a new tartan that is bespoke and significant to you.
If you are looking to buy yourself a highlandwear outfit or looking for something special to celebrate your heritage, book a Virtual Appointment with one of our stylists and get the kilt shop experience from anywhere in the world. Appointments are conducted over video call and our stylists will be able to walk you through every step of the process and help with any questions you might have along the way.