If you’ve ever seen the movie Braveheart, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Scots have always worn kilts. Braveheart tells the story of William Wallace at the end of the 13th century and the film is full of kilts, where in reality, kilts hadn’t actually been invented yet.
Before kilts, tartan and the Scottish identity we recognise today, the people of Scotland would have been wearing the same thing as most other people in northern Europe. That clothing was called the léine which was a long shirt-like tunic. The léine was made from linen which was accessible and cheap. Often dyed yellow using horse urine and later with saffron, the léine was also worn with braies which were like baggy shorts. Not being the warmest outfit choice, Scots would also wear leather or animal furs for added protection against the cold. This type of clothing was worn by Scots for centuries until sheep became more prevalent and their wool could be used instead of linen.
When did Scots start wearing the kilt?
Once sheep became staple livestock of the country, the use of wool became widespread. First used as warm outerwear for the léine, cloaks became popular and were basically lengths of woollen cloth that were draped around the body. These cloaks would have been plain and unpatterned but as the lengths of wool cloth became longer they ended up being pinned at the breast which basically formed an entire garment in itself, rather than just a piece of outerwear. This eventually developed into the belted plaid or great kilt. The move from léine to great kilt would have happened over centuries and it wasn’t until the late 1500s that mention of the kilt is found amongst historical texts. Confusingly, there are depictions in caves across the British Isles dating back to before the 1500s that seem to show men wearing kilts. These depictions actually show men wearing léine which has managed to cause numerous arguments amongst Celtic historians but, until further information is unearthed, the late 1500s is the generally accepted date range of when the kilt was born.
Why did Scots start wearing kilts?
There were two main reasons why the kilt became the number one choice for Scots. The first and most obvious reason is protection against the cold. As everyone knows, Scotland doesn’t have the nicest of winters. It’s cold and wet for half of the year, making linen a less popular option. Wool on the other hand is an excellent insulator and naturally weather resistant, making it an ideal choice to combat Scotland's harsh weather conditions. The other reason was due to the terrain of the Scottish highlands which is very damp and boggy. This terrain would mean that anyone crossing it wearing clothing below the knee would end up with wet and cold legs very quickly. While wearing a kilt wouldn’t prevent the highlandwears legs from getting wet, it did however mean that their legs would be more easily dried than if they were to have worn linen or wool trousers. This is also the reason why the kilt was mainly confined to the highlands and didn’t become a popular choice in the lowlands of Scotland, as it wasn’t really needed.
Do people still wear the great kilt?
In the later part of the 1700s and early 1800s, the introduction of the little kilt or philabeg became a popular option. This period was just after the Dress Act of 1746 was repealed and there was a surge of people looking to restore highland culture. For those that could afford it, the little kilt was the fashionable and practical choice. The great kilt isn’t worn in today's world but the kilt we know continues to gain popularity each year. The closest option you can get to the great kilt is by choosing to wear a plaid with your kilt. A plaid is draped over your shoulder and pinned to your jacket with a brooch. The plaid is meant to symbolise the top half, and the part that has been lost to time, of the great kilt. Usually only worn by grooms on their wedding day or people of importance at other events, a plaid is a great way to connect with the origins of Scotland's national dress.
Do you fancy connecting with Scotland's history and national identity? Visit our website and grab yourself your very own kilt outfit. For any questions about our range of highlandwear, email info@macgregorandmacduff.co.uk.